A U S T R A L I A
So, I've never had the time to sort of explain what's happened, but I'm home now, and for the first time in months I have a little down time.
My goal, for years, was set on Indo - the world's most perfect surfing playground - at least that's what surf media and the internet had convinced 15 year old me of. But, Indo is quite literally on the other side of the world. It's an exact 12 hour time difference depending on which time zone you're in. And, as it always is when traveling to the other side of the world, it's a bit of a journey.
If you look at a map, there are two ways to get there from the United States.
You either go east, or you west. You either cross the Atlantic, Europe, the Middle East, India, and you arrive in Kuala Lumpur..... or you go west, across the entire continental United States (in my case), refuel in Hawaii, and then hit KUL.
Well, it wasn't a very difficult decision whether I wanted to go to Hawaii vs the Middle East and if you're going to Hawaii then you might as well go to fucking Australia. So boom, three months later I was in Australia lol.
And of course, two really, really good friends of mine were in Australia. So it was a no brainer.
The Gold Coast is an interesting place.
It's the kind of place that you are lured to for reasons other than surf.
Maybe it's a new job. Maybe your family lives here. Maybe, you're tired of surfing your shitty, blown out home break and you see the opportunity for a better life in Oz. For most of the people who surf on the Gold Coast, this is their reality.
The beauty of this place is that by coming here, you are essentially stumbling upon one of the greatest wave parks on the planet.
Just pray you're not goofy.
As these types of stories often begin, I ended up on the Gold Coast because of a girl.
I had met this girl in the jungle, on the other side of the planet. Long story short, we were separated.
But, she was the kind of girl worth chasing around the world...
And so I did. For the first time in a long time she gave me hope for a life different than the one I was living. She meant everything to me.
And now, she was living on the Gold Coast.
[to be continued. Check back when I drop a new post on Instagram!]